Þorsmörk is accessible by vehicle, but not in the way you might think. If you have a 4x4, you can test your driving skill by fording the river and driving across the gravel bar. It turns out that Þorsmork is a destination of sorts for Icelanders as well as tourists. It is the official starting point for the Laugavegur hike (I had used a different starting point to have a longer hike) and also a place where people come to camp, stay in the huts, and do day hikes. It was quite the busy place, with hikers, drivers, tourists arriving by bus, kids running around, outdoor cooking, and lots of festivities. The huts looked a bit crowded, so tenting was a good decision.

Fimmvörðuháls to Þorsmörk
12km

Sometime during the night, the wind stopped, and it was a clear and calm morning. I chatted with some of the other hikers about the trail ahead, since they had come that way, and got some good hints. Then I loaded up and headed out.

The first hour was more of the same, minus the wind ... Ash, sand, mud, and snow. Then I came to an area of red volcanic cinder type rock. With no vegetation, it was easy to imagine that the eruption had just happened, an impression made more vivid by the occasional wisps of steam rising from the rock.

After traversing this lava flow, the trail turned sharply downhill. In another hour, I came to a section where the trail seemed to disappear, apparently right over the edge of a cliff. I couldn't believe the trail went this way, until I saw the stakes and a very thin section of chain to hold onto. The trail then traversed a steep scree slope, with an impossibly long drop below and very tenuous footing. It would have been scary without a pack, but with the pack, it was really unsettling. I knew all the other hikers had done it, so I followed suit ....

... Here, the trail clearly continues on the other side of the chasm, but how to get to it?

Four German hikers, who I got to know over the next few days, descend into the Chasm of Doom.

Looking across the scree slope to safety on the other side.

After surviving that section, I stopped for lunch and to let my heart rate get back to normal. :-). Then I hiked across a flat plateau with absolutely stunning views. The trail continued to drop, and the vegetation got more and more lush.

In general, this would not be a good trail for people who are afraid of heights

The trail dropped down to the river, and my destination was on the other side. Even though it looked just a stone's throw, my destination (Þorsmork) in fact took me another hour to reach, crossing a bridge and then picking my way painstakingly through the round cobblestones of river rock.

This bridge is on tractor tires so it can be moved whenever the river changes course

Soon I was hiking through a thicket of stunted birch trees and willow. And what should I see on the trail but, appropriately, a very friendly Icelandic sheepdog, out for a hike with his family.

The Þorsmörk hut. I could have stayed in the hut, but it was such a lovely evening, I decided to camp (plus, I had carried the tent all that way!)

My dinner of rice, beans, and dehydrated veggies -- yum!

One of two arctic fox kits being raised by the wardens at the hut. They were apparently living nearby but their mother had been killed. They were still fairly wild and were living outdoors (under the deck) and being fed by the wardens.

People came and went throughout the afternoon and evening, with several large, noisy, happy groups settling into one of the huts. Someone had a guitar and began to play; people joined in song. The last thing I heard before I fell asleep was people singing in Icelandic, and the sound of the river in the distance.

4x4s parked at Þorsmörk

Tractor to pull out the 4x4s if they get stuck

Car crossing the river, viewed from a vantage point above the hut when I went for a short evening walk. I watched cars and busses cross the river for some time -- it was very entertaining watching them and wondering if they would make it across.

Not your typical Metro bus